I’ve reviewed the dim sum many times over the years, returning most recently to examine the chicken feet and other “challenging” specialties for a review in the Jan. 7, 2009, LEO Weekly. It is also a regular stop on our brunch circuit when I’m not reviewing.

But what’s Jade Palace like in the evening, when the dim sum carts aren’t rolling?

The other night, when my friend Lucinda had just picked up her fancy new hybrid car and was eager to show it off, we swung over to Westport Village to check it out. The car, I mean. And Jade Palace, too.

The car was great. Jade Palace not so much. Don’t get me wrong: It’s not bad neighborhood Chinese, with a fairly standard Chinese-restaurant menu. But the mostly Asian audience that packs the place for weekend brunch and the region’s most authentic dim sum apparently goes elsewhere for dinner, leaving the space and the menu to less adventurous Westerners in the mood for old favorites like chicken almond ding, orange beef, sweet and sour pork, chop suey and chow mein, or if you prefer, a buffet.

We enjoyed a so-so hot-and-sour soup for two ($5.99), crunchy chunks of sesame beef ($10.99), and for old time’s sake, moo shu pork with Chinese pancakes and plum sauce ($8.99). It was all OK, but for authentic Chinese, I think I’ll stick with Red Pepper or maybe Jasmine Chinese for dinner and save Jade Palace for dim sum.

Jade Palace
1201 Herr Lane
425-9878
Dim sum rating: 84 points.
Dinner rating: less than that