I’ve long been a fan of Moby Dick. The local mini-chain with the cartoon whale logo may look fast-foodish, but they’ve been frying quality cod for nearly 45 years, and they know how to do it right. But the news of a recent addition at the Moby Dick in St. Matthews (4848 Shelbyville Road, near Whole Foods) made my head snap back. Fried chicken?

A quick visit confirmed the report: This particular store has gone surf-and-turf. You can still get your usual fried fish and fixins from the standard menu behind the counter. Look to your left, though, and there’s a colorful new “Krunchy Krust Chicken” menu, and a brightly illuminated glass-front case with all manner of fried chicken on display.

Krunchy Krust, it seems, is a franchise operation usually set up within convenience stores. The decision to try it in a Moby Dick seems cheeky, to say the least.

A three-piece combo ($6.19) wasn’t bad. It was Krunchy indeed, with juicy chicken within, but a little bland. The fish at Moby Dick, though, is really crunchy: golden and textured, with a shattering crust. Standing in comparison, the chicken ran a distant second. It’s better than KFC, sure, but that’s too easy. If you want my advice, stay with Moby Dick’s tradition and enjoy the fish — with an order of rings.