Category Archives: BY LOCATION

$ Budget (under $30), Commentary, Frankfort Ave., Clifton, Crescent Hill, World Food

Fox vows to put J. Gumbo’s back on track

J Gumbo's Frankfort Ave. Location
After stumbling at the start, J. Gumbo’s is again hitting its stride.

Regular readers will recall observations I’ve written in the past about the original Clifton J. Gumbo’s retaining much of its character while some other links in the growing local chain didn’t show so well. This news release about Founder Billy Fox Jr. regaining control of the brand should read as good news for those who loved Gumbo’s, at its best, for quality and value.

During his twenty year career as a thoroughbred horse racing jockey, Billy Fox, Jr. learned a thing of two about taking it all in stride. So after his initial foray into franchising his J. Gumbo’s Down-Home Cajun Cookin’ restaurants didn’t proceed as smoothly as he had hoped, Billy didn’t panic or let failure whip him into a frenzy. Instead, he has confidently taken hold of the reins of his business again. “There’s a joke among the staff.” the Grand Coteau, La., native says, “that they’ve gotten me back in the saddle and the kitchen again.”
Continue reading Fox vows to put J. Gumbo’s back on track →

$ Budget (under $30), Pubs, Brew Pubs, GastroPubs, Southern Indiana

Roll out the barrel at Bank Street Brewhouse

steamed mussels, beer
Mussels and a brew at Bank Street Brewhouse

LEO’s Eats with LouisvilleHotBytes
With guest critic Kevin Gibson

Lovers of microbrewery beer now have another local mecca: The long-awaited Bank Street Brewhouse, an offshoot of New Albanian Brewing Company, opened its doors this month and is operating with a limited menu and limited seating in downtown New Albany.

If an early impression does justice to the end result, this brewpub will indeed have been worth the wait.

I visited during a recent evening when, in spite of the lightly publicized “soft opening,” the small pub was mostly full, thanks most likely to the fact that the weather was warm and there were plenty of New Albanian beers from which to choose.
Continue reading Roll out the barrel at Bank Street Brewhouse →

$ Budget (under $30), BY LOCATION, Downtown, NuLu and Butchertown, Frankfort Ave., Clifton, Crescent Hill, New and noteworthy, Pacific Rim

Peace and good eats at Zen Tea House

Avocado and tomato crispy rolls were a treat for the eyes and palate. LEO photo by Ron Jasin.
Avocado and tomato crispy rolls were a treat for the eyes and palate. LEO photo by Ron Jasin.

LEO’s Eats with LouisvilleHotBytes.com

If you’re accustomed to grabbing a cup of coffee and knocking it back without much serious thought, you might find an occasional switch to tea a transformative experience.

Particularly if you choose to savor said cup in the contemplative environment of Zen Tea House in Clifton. Owned by longtime local restaurateur Huong “CoCo” Tran, Zen Tea House completes a neat trio of unusual Asian eateries on Frankfort Avenue, two doors down from her Zen Garden vegetarian restaurant and next door to her nephews’ Basa Modern Vietnamese.

From a rock garden in the small front yard of this Clifton bungalow to the curved, black tea bar that sweeps through the front room, Zen Tea House breathes a quiet, relaxing Asian style. The space is calming and, yes, Zen-like.   Continue reading Peace and good eats at Zen Tea House →

$$ Modest ($30-$50), Baxter, Bardstown, Highlands, World Food

A magic carpet ride to Caspian Grill

Salmon at Caspian Grill

LEO’s Eats with LouisvilleHotBytes.com

We’ve talked before about how Louisville’s Iranian-American community started in the 1970s with a crowd of students at the University of Louisville who decided to stay around when the Ayatollah Khomeini led the Iranian revolution and things went sour back home.

Iran’s loss has been Louisville’s gain, as a surprising number of these folks went into the restaurant business. Initially many of Louisville’s Iranians worked at the late, storied Casa Grisanti. They eventually ventured out to start restaurants of their own, and in more recent years have begun introducing us to their native cuisine. (The respected restaurateur Majid Ghavami, for instance, bridges this gap, now serving as both owner of Saffron’s, the city’s first Iranian restaurant, and general manager of Volare, one of our most popular Italian eateries.)

Now comes another Italian-to-Iranian translation, as the owners of Café Glace on Frankfort Avenue, a gelato shop, have opened Caspian Grill, an excellent Persian restaurant on Bardstown Road, in the quarters formerly occupied by Sweet Surrender.
Continue reading A magic carpet ride to Caspian Grill →

$ Budget (under $30), Bistros, St. Matthews, Westport Village, and environs

Let’s line up for breakfast at Meridian Café

Meridian bagel

LEO’s Eats with LouisvilleHotBytes.com
(Meridian Café, Maido, Les Relais, Dem Bones)

Louisville has always been a breakfast-loving town, it seems, and citizens of Derby City have always had our morning favorites.

From Canary Cottage back in our grandparents’ time to the Baby Boomers’ favorite, Lynn’s Paradise Café, and on to such modern attractions as the lovably urban Toast on Market and Wild Eggs (which just opened a second shop in Westport Village), we’re accustomed to queuing up and waiting, happily and patiently, for weekend breakfast or brunch.

You might find me in line at any of those spots on any given weekend. But you’re even more likely to find me at my top breakfast favorite, Meridian Café in St. Matthews. I honestly cannot understand why Meridian, which always has a cozy crowd of regulars, hasn’t developed the kind of cult following that prompts supplicants to line up outside the door.
Continue reading Let’s line up for breakfast at Meridian Café →

BBQ, Burgers & Down-Home, Bistros, Coffee Shops & Desserts, Downtown, NuLu and Butchertown, Southern Indiana

Don’t dismiss little ol’ Jeff

Our Best
Our Best Restaurant in Jeffersonville is a family-owned business that started as a single eatery in Smithfield, Ky. Photos by Robin Garr

LEO’s Eats with LouisvilleHotBytes.com
(Our Best Restaurant, Perkfection Café; Z’s Fusion opening report)

It would be easy to dismiss the dining options in little ol’ Jeffersonville, especially when you look across the majestic Ohio River and see … Hooters. But there are some rich and varied dining choices over yonder, from the delicious and affordable Mai’s Thai to the old favorite Come Back Inn.

Reporter Kevin Gibson tried a couple of Jeffersonville’s choices recently – Our Best Restaurant, located just off Ind. 62, and Perkfection Café & Bar – and found good things at both.
Continue reading Don’t dismiss little ol’ Jeff →

$ Budget (under $30), Coffee Shops & Desserts, Frankfort Ave., Clifton, Crescent Hill, Seafood & Water's Edge, St. Matthews, Westport Village, and environs, World Food

Recession-busting dining, cheap but fine

Fish tacos at Bazo's
Bazo’s, which recently moved to new quarters off Dupont Circle, serves one of the city’s best fish tacos. Photo by Robin Garr

LEO’s Eats with LouisvilleHotBytes.com
(Bazo’s, Caffe Classico, J. Gumbo’s, Stan’s)

OK, everybody listen up. I’ve told you this before, and chances are you’re going to hear it again: There’s a recession on.

Yes, a recession, and a lot of us are hurting. We’re cutting back on luxuries and hoping we won’t have to cut back on necessities.

For those of us who love food and drink and dining out, we’re whipsawed: It’s harder to justify dropping a pile of bucks on a big evening out, so fine dining may be one of the first indulgences to drop off the budget. But this decision puts a hurtin’ on Louisville’s local, independent restaurant community, the Louisville Originals and Keep Louisville Weirds that make our city an exceptional place to dine for its size.
Continue reading Recession-busting dining, cheap but fine →

$$$ Upscale ( $50 - $80), Hurstbourne, Middletown, Jeffersontown, World Food

Economy? What economy? Furlongs is back!

Baked oysters at Furlongs
Furlongs’ baked naked oysters are oysters made for the wary, served on the half-shell just like the real thing but cooked through for reassurance. Photos by Robin Garr

LEO’s Eats with LouisvilleHotBytes.com

One year slouches to a close, another draws near, and if any subject dominates the conversation, it’s the economy.

With the closing of a number of high-profile independent restaurants toward year’s end, including Primo, Melillo’s, Park Place and Browning’s, and Seviche’s suburban operation on Goose Creek Road, there’s been a lot of media coverage – and abundant speculation – about the recessionary economy taking down our beloved local eateries.

We’re not so sure. It’s certainly true that in hard times, more than ever, those of us who love good eats and the fine independent restaurants that cook them need to get out there and support the industry with our business.

But a closer look at the local industry over the past year suggests that Louisville’s independent dining scene is a far cry from the banking industry or Detroit’s dinosaurs. You’ll find few toxic assets on your dinner plate, and lemons turn up only with our fish entree or in our iced tea.
Continue reading Economy? What economy? Furlongs is back! →

$$ Modest ($30-$50), Hurstbourne, Middletown, Jeffersontown, Pacific Rim

Harming no animals at Bombay Grill

Vegetarian plate at Bombay Grill
Vegetarian plate from the lunch buffet at Bombay Grill. Photos by Robin Garr

LEO’s Eats with LouisvilleHotBytes.com

If you’ll pardon a brief personal digression, I’ve been mournful lately following the loss of my beloved yellow cat Pepito, who died last month after a short, vicious bout with a virulent feline cancer. I held him in my arms and cried as the vet gave him the injection that eased his pain and took him from us way too soon. He was only 10.

To be frank, after having watched the light fade from the bright eyes of my best friend, I went through a period when I really didn’t feel right about making my meal on anything that had once been part of a living animal with a mommy and a face.

A vegetarian food critic? Appealing, but probably impractical in a general-audience newspaper, even one as eccentric as LEO Weekly. Continue reading Harming no animals at Bombay Grill →