Category Archives: Commentary

Robin Garr’s musings about food and restaurant matters that don’t fit neatly into the “review” category.

$$$ Upscale ( $50 - $80), A RESTAURANT LISTING..., Commentary, St. Matthews, Westport Village, and environs, White tablecloth, deluxe

Classy Equus drops prices and tablecloths but keeps high style

Warm sparagus salad at Equus

LouisvilleHotBytes.com in The Voice-Tribune

Okay, who wants organ meat? Internal organs, that is, livers, kidneys, hearts and even more unmentionable selections.

All together now: “Eeeeuuuuwwww!”

But wait! People around the world have been enjoying organ meats for millennia, and those who shun them on the basis of the “eeuuww” factor are missing something good.

This is one of the many reasons I love dining with my wife, Mary, and our good friend Lucinda. They’re adventurous foodies, and showed it the other night when we spotted sweetbreads on the menu at Equus.

“I’m having that,” Lucinda said with a happy smile. “Can we share?” asked Mary. Me, too.

What’s a sweetbread? It isn’t bread, and it’s not a dessert. It’s a calf’s thymus gland, or perhaps a bit of his pancreas. Vegetarians please look away.
Continue reading Classy Equus drops prices and tablecloths but keeps high style →

$$$ Upscale ( $50 - $80), A RESTAURANT LISTING..., Bistros, Commentary, St. Matthews, Westport Village, and environs

Wathen’s Kentucky Bistro bounces back

Wathen's Mahi Mahi

LEO’s Eats with LouisvilleHotBytes.com

Everybody loves a parade? Maybe. Let’s say that most people love most parades. But the procession of broken dreams that has recently passed through the St. Matthews space that once was home to Rick’s? That’s a parade not so easy to enjoy.

For the historical record, let’s retrace the genealogy of this spot that once housed the offices of the then-Voice of St. Matthews: Rick Dissell established the original Rick’s around 1980, and earned his popularity the old-fashioned way, with a 17-year run in that location.
Continue reading Wathen’s Kentucky Bistro bounces back →

Industry Standard

Servers – What do they do all day, anyway?

It looks easy, doesn’t it? I mean, they just walk up to your table and take your order. Half the time they don’t even bring your food, right? A food runner delivers your plates – and a busser picks them up after you’re done. Of course your server may help you with wine or beer pairings (and also bring the bill!) but, all told, they may spend 10 minutes or less with you. So what exactly do servers do to earn a tip?
Continue reading Servers – What do they do all day, anyway? →

Commentary

Community Farm Alliance rally against proposed farm rules

News Release: Join CFA and Allied Organizations for a Protest Rally! Tell USDA to STOP N.A.I.S! 

Come to Louisville to show your support of Family Farmers and Healthy Food! Friday, May 22, members of Community Farm Alliance and allied organizations will be speaking out against the USDA’s proposed National Animal Identification System.

Our goal is to have 100 people present to tell USDA why NAIS is harmful to family farmers, sustainable healthy foods, and our local food economy. YOUR VOICE IS NEEDED! COME JOIN US AS WE PROTEST N.A.I.S!

News release, discussion on Louisville Restaurants Forum
Industry Standard

Hey – it’s your dinner!

So you’re out with friends for a celebratory meal, or perhaps just a regular meal, and – even though the menu’s obviously in English – you’re stymied. Parts of it seem to be Greek to you, and I don’t mean the part that says “hummus.” Hmmm, you think. I wonder what’s in a Bordelaise sauce? At this point, some folks whip out their iPhones and Google like mad. But don’t isolate yourself from the table conversation to do research – after all, you’re there to enjoy the company of your companions. Ask your server!
Continue reading Hey – it’s your dinner! →

$ Budget (under $30), Commentary, Frankfort Ave., Clifton, Crescent Hill, World Food

Fox vows to put J. Gumbo’s back on track

J Gumbo's Frankfort Ave. Location
After stumbling at the start, J. Gumbo’s is again hitting its stride.

Regular readers will recall observations I’ve written in the past about the original Clifton J. Gumbo’s retaining much of its character while some other links in the growing local chain didn’t show so well. This news release about Founder Billy Fox Jr. regaining control of the brand should read as good news for those who loved Gumbo’s, at its best, for quality and value.

During his twenty year career as a thoroughbred horse racing jockey, Billy Fox, Jr. learned a thing of two about taking it all in stride. So after his initial foray into franchising his J. Gumbo’s Down-Home Cajun Cookin’ restaurants didn’t proceed as smoothly as he had hoped, Billy didn’t panic or let failure whip him into a frenzy. Instead, he has confidently taken hold of the reins of his business again. “There’s a joke among the staff.” the Grand Coteau, La., native says, “that they’ve gotten me back in the saddle and the kitchen again.”
Continue reading Fox vows to put J. Gumbo’s back on track →